Well, so much for the plan to beat jet lag. . .I drifted off at 4 p.m.  Charlene woke me up at 5 to get ready for bed (she thought it was 7 - reading the 24 hour clock is something we need to master).  Our apartment owner/guide/caretaker/advisor has set us up with goat cheese, fresh tomatoes, milk, fruit and the like, oriented us to the neighborhood (including the basics like where to buy wine - Charlene, fearing they were about to close, sprinted to that place), and instructed us on apartment rules such as "close the door gently" and "for late night calls, take the phone into the kitchen and speak softly".  Armed with instructions on how to make espresso, make free phone calls to anywhere in the world, use Karen's laptop, and how to navigate our tiny space, we are feeling quite at home.  As of now, no pockets picked and nothing lost that we couldn't find.  The best bargain so far:  a huge bunch of lilacs (my favorite flower) for 1 euro in spite of Charlene's attempt to haggle them up to 7.  She will probably want to explain that.  Carolette